The Nikon Z f looks like a bigger version of the Nikon Z fc, but it also feels more robust and better made. While the body is made from magnesium alloy, the dials on the top plate are made from brass and they feel more solidly mounted than the Z fc’s. Over time, we can anticipate that the black paint will rub off the edges of the dials on the Zf to reveal the brass, which will develop a patina that adds to the vintage look.
The Nikon Z f is weather-sealed, and the sensor has a fluorine coating to help repel dirt.
While the Z fc has a flat front, the Nikon Z f has a slim grip on its front. This provides just enough purchase to make it feasible to hold the camera hanging down from your hand, but I’d always use a strap to ensure the camera is safe. If you want something more pronounced, Nikon has commissioned an additional (non-battery) grip from SmallRig that should make the camera feel more secure and retails for £44.99. After using the Zf without the extra grip for a few days, I’d be inclined to order one for longer-term use. Nikon UK has a launch deal that includes the grip with the camera.
Nikon Z f controls
The control arrangement really distinguishes the Nikon Zf and Zfc from the company’s other mirrorless cameras. That’s because the retro Zf cameras have three dials on the top plate as well as the front and rear command dials.
On the right of the Zf’s top plate there’s a large dial to set the sensitivity (ISO) value with numerical markings for the ‘whole’ stop settings running from ISO 100 to 51,200. There are also dots that denote the 1/3-stop settings. In addition, a C setting enables the ISO value to be adjusted using a command dial.
Beneath the sensitivity dial, there’s a switch to set the camera to Auto, Program, Shutter priority, Aperture priority or Manual exposure mode.
Over on the right side of the top plate, there’s a shutter speed dial with value markings running in whole stops from 4 seconds to 1/8000 sec. Additional settings are marked ‘1/3 Steps’, ‘X’, ‘T’ and ‘B’. The 1/3 Steps setting allows you to use a command dial to set the shutter speed while X sets the flash sync speed, T sets the camera to Time mode, and B sets it to Bulb mode.
The ISO and shutter speed dials have a lock button that can be used optionally – you can choose to lock the dial.
The third dial is on the far right end of the top plate and is used to set the exposure compensation value with settings running from -3EV to +3EV. There’s also a C setting that enables a command dial to be used to set the exposure compensation.
The shutter release is a silver dome with a leaf switch for a traditional feel. This has a threaded hole to attach a traditional screw-in remote release.
Unlike Fujifilm, Nikon doesn’t produce lenses with a dedicated aperture ring, but some have a control ring that can be customised to adjust the aperture value. It’s also possible to set the focus ring to adjust the aperture value on those lenses that don’t have a dedicated control ring. However, the aperture control is lost when the camera is switched to manual focusing. As you’d expect, the aperture can also be set using the front or rear command dial.
However the aperture is set, the value can be seen in the small screen next to the exposure compensation dial on the top plate.
As on the Zfc, there’s no ‘Auto’ setting on the Zf’s shutter speed, ISO or exposure compensation dial.
Unusually, in addition to flipping between stills or video mode, the switch beneath the shutter speed dial on the Zf’s top plate has a B&W option. When this is selected, the camera is set to one of the three monochrome Picture Control modes. It defaults to whichever monochrome mode was last used. When the switch is set to B&W, only the monochrome Picture Control options are available in the menu.
The back of the Zf is similar to the Nikon Z6, Z7 and Z8 cameras, and almost identical to the Zfc. The information menu is accessed by pressing the ‘i’ button to the left of the thumb rest. Below the ‘i’ button, there’s a navigation pad that surrounds the ‘OK’ button, and beneath that, there’s a cluster of four buttons that let you zoom in and out of the image, toggle through the display options and access the main menu.
While I’m disappointed that there isn’t a mini joystick on the back of the Nikon Zf, the navigation pad is well-positioned and within convenient reach of my thumb. It takes a fraction more time to use than a joystick, but it’s responsive.
Nikon Z f viewfinder and screen
Nikon plumped for a 1.27-cm/0.5-inch 3690k-dot (Quad VGA) OLED electronic viewfinder on the Zf. That’s the same as on the Z6 II. That’s a standard size and resolution viewfinder for a full-frame mirrorless camera in this class and it does its job well. There’s plenty of detail visible and the exposure and colour are a good match for the captured image.
While the screen on the back of the Nikon Zf is the same 3.2-inch 2,100,000-dot touch-screen as is on the original Z6 and Z6 II, it’s mounted on a vari-angle hinge rather than a tilting bracket. This means that the screen can be angled to give a clear view, whichever orientation you’re shooting in. The screen can also be flipped out and rotated to face forward, which is handy for selfies and vlogging. That’s a first for a full-frame Z-series camera.
Both the main and Info menus can be navigated and items selected by touch control on the screen. That speeds setting selections and adjustments.
Nikon Zf memory card
As I suggested earlier, Nikon’s decision to make the second card slot in the Zf for microSD cards seems a strange decision. It’s likely to be card that many of its intended users won’t have. They are also fiddly and have a tendency to ping out at speed if (when) your finger slips as you push one home. In the Zf, I found it easier to remove the battery to before popping the card in or out as the slot is between the SD card and the battery.
Nikon states that UHS-I microSd cards should be used, but it also recommends that SD cards with a maximum transfer rate of at least 250MB/s should be used for recording high frame rate videos. That should rule out UHS-I microSD cards. That said, I was able to record over 12 minutes of 10-bit 4K video at 30p to a microSD card in the Zf. I didn’t record until the camera stopped as it seemed to be coping and would only stop when the card was full. Switching to shoot 10-bit 4K video at 60p, I was able to record just over 10 minutes of footage before the card was full. The camera warmed up a little but I wouldn’t describe it as hot.